Steps:
- Use a small sledgehammer and cold chisel to separate the old cast-iron closet flange from the toilet’s drainpipe, known as the closet bend.
- Pry free the loosened closet flange with a flat bar.
- Set the new compression flange over toilet’s drainpipe, and then trace around it with a marker.
- Use a hammer and cold chisel to chop out any tile that’s preventing the flange from sitting flat without wobbling.
- Press the rubber gasket onto the new closet flange; be sure the gasket’s tapered edge faces down.
- Set the brass ring on top of the rubber gasket, and tap it down with the hammer.
- Use a ratchet wrench to tighten the four stainless-steel screws that secure the flange to the floor.
- Insert two new closet bolts into the slots in the closet flange.
- Press a new wax ring tight to the flange.
- Set the toilet on top of the flange, making sure the two closet bolts pass through the holes in the toilet’s base.
- Onto each closet bolt insert a white plastic base, brass washer and hex nut.
- Alternately tighten each nut with a ratchet wrench, being very careful not to over-tighten them.
- Trim the closet screws down to size with a close-quarter hacksaw, then snap on the plastic covers.
- Reconnect the water-supply line to the toilet.
- Turn on the water by opening the toilet’s shut-off valve.
- Allow the toilet to fill, then flush the toilet and check for leaks.
- Grab each side of the toilet and try wiggling it. If necessary, very carefully tighten each closet bolt a little more.